Crossing Paths: Jurassic Park

That's a big bird.

That’s a big bird.

Around 150 million years ago, in the Late Jurassic, an 18-ton sauropod, possibly a Camarasaur (think Brontosaur), walked along a rippled sandbar by a river, leaving a track of great sucking holes with its enormous platter-sized feet.

Then, danger: a pack of theropods, likely formidable T-Rex-like Allosaurs, appeared to the left and the Camarasaur swung right, leaving an arc of tracks, crossed by the three-toed bird-like prints of at least five of the 3-ton predators. Shortly after their crossing, fine sand filled in the tracks, which were then deeply buried as part of the Salt Wash member of the Morrison formation. Eons later, in 1989, the paths were uncovered when a road to a copper mine was built through this area, off highway 191 north of Moab, exposing the tracks.

The thing about dinosaur trackways is they often don’t look like anything special, just an odd-shaped depression in the rock. You have to stop and really look and use your imagination. A little water helps too…

Allosaurus!

Allosaurus Track #1

Allosaurus Track #2

Allosaurus Track #2

Allosaurus Track #3

Allosaurus Track #3

The Allosaurus Trackway

The Allosaurus Trackway

Sauropod Track. Suauropod prints are rarely preserved and even more rarely identified, mainly because they don't look like anything special.

Sauropod Track. Sauropod prints are rarely preserved and even more rarely identified, mainly because they don’t look like anything special.

Dio crossing paths with the Camarasaur, crossing paths with the Allosaur

Dio crossing paths with the Camarasaur, crossing paths with the Allosaur

To visit the Copper Ridge Dinosaur Trackway, drive north from Moab on 191 for 23 miles to a signed turnoff just past mile marker 148 and follow the signs to the trackway, which runs across a tilted sandstone slab less than a quarter mile from the trailhead. There is good free camping down this road as well. Check out my previous post on dinosaur trackways: Monsters of Navajoland.

Posted in Bowie & D.O.G., Hiking!, Photography, Road tripping! | 5 Comments

Explosions in the Sky: Canyonlands Thunderstorm!

Canyonlands Thunderstorm

Canyonlands Thunderstorm (click to enlarge)

One of the things I love most about road tripping through Utah is the abundance of free campsites! I passed through the Moab area on a beautiful spring weekend – the height of tourist season, every hotel, motel and campground said “No Vacancy” – and yet I had no trouble finding awesome, free places to camp each night. My grand total for lodging for 9 nights on the road: $0.

The absolute best campsite I had this past week – possibly one of the best I’ve ever had – was at the Canyon Rim Recreation Area, BLM lands overlooking Canyonlands National Park, south of Moab. The two official campgrounds were full, but I had the entire Needles Overlook area to myself! On my way out out to the overlook/ picnic area (which is signed no camping) I spotted a slew of unpaved roads snaking off through the trees, towards the drop. I left the pavement and followed one of these roads to where it dead ended next to a fire ring at the edge of the mesa.

My sweet free spot overlooking Canyonlands

My sweet free spot overlooking Canyonlands

Right after I parked, I heard thunder in the distance and soon the most incredible storm system I have ever witnessed swept down through Canyonlands in a dramatic procession of cumulonimbus thunderheads called a “squall line”. Up on the rim, I barely got wet! Utah, this is Love.

Canyonlands Squall Line

Canyonlands Squall Line

Best seat in the house!

Best seat in the house!

A few drops on the rim, deluge down below

A few drops on the rim, deluge down below

Rain in the Desert!

Rain in the Desert!

The Edge of the Storm

The Edge of the Storm

Thunderstorm D.O.G.

Thunderstorm D.O.G.

Aftermath: A Full-Circle Rainbow at Sunset!

Aftermath: A Full-Circle Rainbow at Sunset!

For more on free camping check out my previous posts: Boondocking 101, How to Find a Sweet Free Campsite and Leave No Trace. Also check out my other raging storm post: Explosions in the Sky: Pawnee National Grasslands. These are some of my favorite pictures I’ve ever taken and thus it bears repeating: please don’t steal my photos! If you’d like a print, please contact me at theblondecoyote@gmail.com. Thank you! M

Posted in Bowie & D.O.G., Hiking!, Photography, Road tripping!, Teardrop Trailer, Vagabonding 101 | 20 Comments

Writing on the Wall: Utah Petroglyphs

Sheep in Glen Canyon

Petroglyphs are treasures: rock art created centuries ago by people both mysterious and familiar. Why did ancient people write on walls? Probably for many of the same reasons that modern people do today. Here are a few of my favorite petroglyphs from the past week in Utah. Some of these I read about in guide books, some I was told about by locals and a few I just stumbled upon while wandering in canyon country. Enjoy!

Newspaper Rock in Canyonlands National Park

Newspaper Rock detail: post-Spaniard glyph of horse and rider & monster man

Petroglyph Violence? Sand Island Petroglyph Panel, Bluff, Utah

Fremont Style Petroglyphs at Sego Canyon, Utah

Monster Men near Glen Canyon. One of the petroglyphs I stumbled upon on my own.

Bear & Hunters

Bear & Hunters

The Original Ballers

The Original Ballers

Elaborate Headdress

Elaborate Headdress

Family?

Family?

The Birthing Panel, famous petroglyph along Kane Creek Road near Moab

The Birthing Panel, famous petroglyph along Kane Creek Road near Moab

Snake & Sunlight

Snake & Sunlight

Love rock art? Check out my previous posts on Urban Petroglyphs and Geologic Unrest and the Sego Canyon pictographs. Love graffiti? Me too! 

Posted in Hiking!, Photography, Road tripping!, Uncategorized | 5 Comments

Utah In Bloom

Blooming Yucca at Corona Arch

Blooming Yucca at Corona Arch

The desert holds a perfect and natural balance between lifelessness and living vibrancy. The strangeness and wonder of existence are emphasized here, in the desert, by the comparative sparsity of the flora and fauna: life not crowded upon life as in other places but scattered abroad in spareness and simplicity, with a generous gift of space for each herb and bush and tree, each stem of grass, so that the living organism stands out bold and brave and vivid against the lifeless sand and barren rock. The extreme clarity of the desert light is equaled by the extreme individuation of desert life-forms. Love flowers best in openness and freedom.”

                                                                                                                     - Ed Abbey, Desert Solitaire 

Canyonlands Mallow

Canyonlands Mallow

Prince's Plume

Prince’s Plume

Mule's Ear

Mule’s Ear

Blooming Barrel Cactus

Blooming Barrel Cactus

Rock Garden

Rock Garden

Primrose Hillside

Primrose Hillside

Yucca Garden

Yucca Garden

Indian Paintbrush

Indian Paintbrush on Sandstone

Indian Paintbrush along a Slickrock Trail

Indian Paintbrush along a Slickrock Trail

Posted in Bowie & D.O.G., Hiking!, Photography, Sustainable Living, Uncategorized, Vagabonding 101 | 8 Comments

Filly Lost & Found: A Mother’s Day Post

Lost filly near Hole in the Wall, Wyoming

A year ago yesterday, in Wyoming, one of my childhood dreams came true. Somewhat lost on back roads, searching for Butch Cassidy’s Outlaw Cave in the middle of nowhere Wyoming, I happened to look off to the side of the red dirt road and saw something that made my heart stop: a tiny red foal, all alone, laying down among the red rocks, no mare in sight.

I immediately pulled over, left the dogs in the car and climbed up the bank above the road to get a better look. I grew up with horses, but I’d never seen one so new; the foal was no more than a few hours old. As I approached, slowly, talking sweetly, and holding my hands palms up and open in front of me, the baby whinnied and wobbled to her feet.

Mares will sometimes leave a foal if it is sickly or deformed, but this one seemed well enough and looked perfect. She took a few unsteady steps towards me and whinnied again, making desperate suckling motions with her mouth. Gently, I ran my fingertips down her velvet nose, the softest thing I’ve ever felt, and she latched on to my finger. She was alive but thirsty, hot and stressed. She needed her mom, fast.

Poor baby was hugging that pole like it might be her mother

Miraculously, I had an idea where her mom was. A few miles back down the road, I had passed a field of mares and foals and noticed one mare running back and forth, calling frantically. At the time, I thought, poor thing must have lost her foal. I never dreamed I’d find it!

Quickly I ran through my options. She was too weak and wobbly to walk back to the field, even if I could get her to follow me. I could try to put her in my car or in my Teardrop and drive her back down the road, but I didn’t want to stress her, especially with the dogs in the car. So I told her I’d be right back, ran to my car, unhitched the Teardrop, drove back to the ranch and tracked down the owner, an older man with a big hat and a bigger moustache.

The Hole in the Wall Ranch, Barnum, Wyoming

Sure enough, one of his mares, a first-time mom, had gone off to give birth overnight and returned in the morning without the baby. He assumed it was dead and seemed incredulous to hear that she was on her feet. He asked if I would go wait with the foal while he hitched up his trailer.

The filly was still standing where I left her. I grabbed my camera and sat on the ground in front of her, talking sweetly, assuring her that help was on the way. Her newborn baby softness was astonishing. Even her tiny hooves were still soft and curled from the womb, not yet hardened by life on earth. I looked into her big brown eyes and she looked back at me, the first human she’d ever seen and it was love.

Filly Love. Those eyelashes! Those ears! That crooked star! What a doll.

In my childhood fantasy, I find an orphaned foal and she’s mine and I’m hers, forever. I raise her by bottle, teach her everything I know about being a horse and she teaches me everything she knows about being a horse mother and the two of us grow up together. Now, 31 years old and tied to nothing but a couple of dogs and a Teardrop trailer, I’m glad to know her mom’s just down the road, hopefully eager for a reunion. Watching over this foal for a few minutes is as close to motherhood as I want to get.

When the rancher arrived, he looked her over, and told me he thought she’d be all right. The mare was still looking for her, hadn’t yet forgotten and hopefully they’d be happily reunited. He guessed the steep bank above the road might have been their undoing; if the mare gave birth up here, the baby may have been unable to follow her home. With that he picked her up, carried her down the bank and loaded her into his trailer.

Goodbye Filly, Best of Luck!

As he was driving away, he leaned out the window of his truck and asked me, “Hey what’s your name?” I told him and he said, “It’s a filly. I’m going to name her after you. Thanks again.” I’ve never been so honored by anything in my life.

Dedicated to all the moms in my life: my mom and her mother, Meg and Meg, Amy and Lesly, Shumin and Reinhild. You ladies are amazing. Happy Mother’s Day!

Posted in Cowboys & Horses, Photography, Road tripping!, Teardrop Trailer, Vagabonding 101 | 19 Comments

On the Road, Again: Angel Peak, NM

Sunset Storm At Angel Peak, NM

Sunset Storm At Angel Peak, NM

Hey Everybody, I’m back on the road, carving a leisurely loop through Utah and Colorado. On my way out of New Mexico, the Land of Enchantment treated me to some awesome off trail hiking and free camping in the Angel Peak Scenic Area, south of Farmington. On to the Salmon Ruins, Aztec National Monument and the 4 Corners! How do I string all these places together? Check out my post How To Plan A Killer Roadtrip!

The trail along the rim. Once I dropped down into the badlands, I was blazing my own path.

The trail to the rim. Once I dropped down into the badlands, I was blazing my own path.

Overcast Day

Dropping over the Rim, Overcast Day

Angel Peak from the Badlands

Angel Peak from the Badlands

Angel Peak

Angel Peak from below

Following the crest of the ridge to the sentinel

Following the crest of the ridge to the sentinel

Sentinel D.O.G.

Sentinel D.O.G.

Pale Sunset at Angel Peak

Pale Sunset at Angel Peak

Posted in Bowie & D.O.G., Hiking!, New Mexico, Photography, Road tripping!, Teardrop Trailer, Uncategorized, Vagabonding 101 | 8 Comments

Crossing Paths: Ten Horses

Desert Traffic Jam

Desert Traffic Jam

Now that spring has sprung and the days are warming up I’ve switched to my summer schedule: hiking at sunrise and sunset, to avoid the heat and the rattlesnakes. The other morning, my early start was well rewarded with ten horses*. Well, nine horses and one donkey. I’ve been crossing paths with this herd for five years now and even though I haven’t seen them since March of 2012, they knew me. It’s always nice to be remembered by a horse, let alone ten.

The grey and the dun on the left are my favorites. And the big black. Ok, all of them!

The grey and the dun on the left are my favorites. And the big black. Ok, all of them!

Hello, Beautiful

Hello, Beautiful

My Old Friend, the dog-stomping chestnut.

My Old Friend, the dog-stomping chestnut.

These horses have quite a story: dumped out here in the desert over the years by people who couldn’t or didn’t want to care for them anymore, they banded together into a herd of 18. This desert, scraping through a drought, cannot support 18 large grazing animals and they’ve eaten everything to dust. A couple of years ago two neighbors created the Old Windmill Trail Farm Animal Sanctuary to raise money to buy the herd hay through the winter. So the horses now have a homebase, but this is open rangeland and they still roam freely, much to the chagrin of many of my neighbors.

Contact.

Contact.

Funny Face

Funny Face

Some of my neighbors want the herd fenced in to protect the land, but there is no legal recourse. This desert is zoned rangeland and animals are not required to be fenced in; homeowners are responsible for fencing them out of private property. As a horse lover and a desert lover, I’m torn. I love seeing the horses, as long as I can keep them from stomping my dogs, but I can’t overlook how they’re tearing up the ground and stripping the already meager plant life. I also don’t want any more fences out here, in all this wild open space. As usual, when dealing with issues of ecology, there are no easy answers. On this morning, I simply felt blessed to cross paths with old friends.

Moving On, Two Wary Chestnuts

Moving On, Two Wary Chestnuts

Until we meet again!

Until we meet again!

Read more about these horses in my previous post: Wilding Horses, which was published in the anthology Best Travel Writing 2011, and about a wild mustang auction in All the Pretty Horses.

* Update: I thought I counted nine horses but somebody just pointed out there are 10 in the top photo! :)

Posted in Cowboys & Horses, Hiking!, New Mexico, Photography, Uncategorized, Vagabonding 101 | 5 Comments

RIP Science Writing at Johns Hopkins

Last summer I hiked to the Burgess Shale in Canada's Yoho National Park and covered the trip for EARTH magazine, a dream assignment for this life-long fossil nut.

Last summer I hiked to the Burgess Shale in Canada’s Yoho National Park and covered the trip for EARTH magazine, a dream assignment for this lifelong fossil nut.

I don’t just write for fun; I make my living as a freelance science and travel writer. How does one go about getting such a fantastic job? Well there are many roads, but I started out with a background in science as a self-designed Evolution major – focusing on geology, ecology and genetics – and then, after stints on an organic farm and in a genetics lab, I got a master’s degree in science writing from Johns Hopkins University in Baltimore, Maryland.

Science journalism is a rare art and an increasingly indispensable one. Climate change, fracking, earthquakes, tsunamis, epidemics, invasive species, GMO agriculture, evolution, genomic medicine–chances are if you’re at all interested, informed, or concerned about anything rooted in science, you’ve probably come across the work of a science writer. Our job is to translate the jargon published in scientific journals into language that everybody can read and understand. I love my job. I learn something new everyday. Just this past week I have written about supervolcanoes, coelacanths, comets vs. asteroids, dinosaur embryos, Arctic ozone, and our ancient ancestor, Australopithecus sediba.

Now aspiring science writers have one less program for learning the art of writing about science: Katherine Newman, the Dean of Arts & Sciences at Hopkins, has axed the graduate program in science writing. Apparently, the numbers weren’t adding up. How can a place like Johns Hopkins underestimate the importance of communicating and disseminating the very scientific research that has made it rich and famous?

Only four schools offer an equivalent degree: MIT, NYU, Boston University and UC Santa Cruz. All great programs, but they lack Ann Finkbeiner, the long-time director of the Hopkins program, who has now resigned. When I was applying to grad schools, I thought the program at MIT was my first choice. Then, I met Ann. Ann is a fantastically engaging writer and an even better teacher. I loved every minute of my experience at Hopkins and can’t help but feel sorry for the incoming class, who were told just last week they need a Plan B, and for future science writers everywhere, who won’t get the same opportunity I had to learn this ever enlightening craft.

Links to my science stories can be found on my professional website: http://marycapertonmorton.com/links.html. Also check out Ann’s wonderful science blog: The Last Word On Nothing. Onward and upward, Ann!

Posted in Sustainable Living, Uncategorized | Tagged , , , | 9 Comments

Desert In Bloom

Cactus Bloom

Desert Treasure: Claret Cup Bloom

Springtime in the desert is subtle, but sweet. Flowers are few and far between and all the more precious for their rarity, often rising out of bare rock, with no cushion of soil. Out here I never pass by a bloom without stopping to admire its tenacity. The miracle of life, underfoot!

Yellow & Tin

Yellow & Tin

White on Rock

White on Rock

Indian Paintbrush, my favorite!

Indian Paintbrush, my favorite!

Yellow Cactus

Yellow Cactus

Cholla Getting Ready

Cholla Getting Ready

Cholla in Bloom!

Cholla in Bloom!

Claret Cup, Full Bloom

Claret Cup, Full Bloom

Posted in Hiking!, New Mexico, Photography, Sustainable Living, Uncategorized | 12 Comments

Watch Your Step!

Tarantula, Lurking

Desert Treasure

A few weeks ago, my friend Devin and I drove six hours out of our way so Devin could meet the Grand Canyon and so I could see it for the sixth time. We walked up to the South Rim at Mather Point, stood for a moment, both speechless and slightly unsteady on that overwhelming edge and then sat with our feet dangling into the abyss, talking a bit about rocks, rivers and trails, but mostly marveling in silence.

Then, after consulting a park ranger about a potential dirt-road short cut (now washed out, good to know!) we took off again, heading south, then west then north again to Hualapai Hilltop, where we’d descend into Havasu Canyon, a side branch of the Grand, the following day.

My friend Becky meeting the Grand Canyon, Gets you every time.

My friend Becky meeting the Grand Canyon. It gets you every time.

On our way back south, driving through the deep ponderosa pine forest that shades much of the canyon rim, I spotted several dark, furry-textured masses off in the woods. Based on the size, shape and movement, I said to Devin, “Look- Elk!” and he caught a glimpse as we flashed past. Clearly impressed by my sharp eyes he paid me a lovely compliment: “I am amazed by what you see.”

A decade of traveling the world with a camera around my neck has strengthened my eagle eyes. I have 20/15 vision and I’m always on watch. Most days, I see opportunities everywhere. Visual acuity is a skill, something practiced, learned and honed and it’s not just good for drive-by’s; my eyes also serve me well in springtime in rattlesnake country.

Camoflague

Camouflage

Of course, the great thing about rattlesnakes is that they rattle. That sound, like the loudest buzz from the angriest bee, sends me leaping out of my skin. Rattlers don’t mean to menace; they just don’t want to get stepped on. Now it’s springtime in the desert, and as the rocks and the sand and the rattlesnake dens are warming to a reptile-waking temperature, I’m constantly on watch. Every step, handhold and sitting spot gets checked. The other day, exploring a dry backyard canyon – much smaller but no less enchanting than the Grand – I caught a glimpse of spindly octagonal texture: eight furry legs poking up out of the sand in the bottom of the arroyo. Tarantula!

Tarantula!

Rocks & Spider

At first I couldn’t tell whether it was old and dead or young and alive. All the other tarantula’s I’ve ever seen in New Mexico have been dark brown. Was this one sun-bleached or freshly-molted? Was it entombed, or emerging? Most importantly: Was it watching me too?

Crossing Paths... Tarantula!

Crossing Paths… Tarantula!

Tarantulas do hibernate underground (they also migrate, journeying incredible distances) but this one clearly wasn’t in a den. It looked washed up, but its guard-hairs were still fluffed; they didn’t look sand-abraded as they would if the dead, tumbling creature had been flushed here in a storm. Rain hasn’t come in months. Maybe it had been blown here and buried by the wind. I leaned down and blew on it. No movement except for a few loose sand grains. I was pretty sure it was dead. Still, I didn’t touch it and startled more than once when I leaned in for a closeup.

Hello, Beautiful

Hello, Beautiful

While studying the tarantula, I set my hat down on a nearby rock, thinking: I shouldn’t do this, this is how I lost the last one. But I did it and of course, I walked off without it. I got all the way home before I ran my hand through my hair and remembered. I rested for a minute, miles from my beloved hat, and watched the last light from the sunset and then I started back down the arroyo. Two Akubras lost to the desert is two too many. I found my hat right where I left it, next to the still unmoved tarantula and made it home under a rising nearly-full moon.

Desert Moon

Desert Moon

Want to know the story behind that bobcat? Check out my post – Freshly Pressed in October 2011 – Crossing Paths: Bobcat! My other tarantula posts are here and here.

Posted in Hiking!, New Mexico, Photography, Road tripping!, Uncategorized, Vagabonding 101 | Tagged , , , | 13 Comments