On Sunday, I drove through Fairplay, Colorado, which I imagine is normally a pretty quiet mountain town. Not last weekend. A banner along the main drag declared it “Burro Days” and the place was a madhouse! Traffic, people, vendors, re-enactors shooting off guns in the streets! And donkeys! Yes, Burro Days does involve actual burros!
We were on our way up the road to Alma to hike three 14’ers in one day, but I’m a big believer in road trip serendipity: when I stumble upon something interesting, I pull over and check it out! So we parked and wandered around, trying to figure out what Burro Days were all about.
Then we heard an announcement over some speakers coming from the upper deck of the Historic Hand Hotel: the leaders of the long race would be coming down the homestretch soon! Apparently there was a race! And then, through the gates at the end of the main street came one of the more bizarre sights I’ve ever seen: two tall, lanky men, clearly ultra-type runners, were sprinting down the street, neck and neck, both leading long-eared donkeys. They crossed the finish line, one edging out in front of the other. I had just witnessed the very end of the World Championship Pack-Burro Race!
This only-in-Colorado-tradition dates back to the late 1800’s, when donkeys were used by miners to transport gear and rocks throughout the mineral-rich Rocky mountains. Since the donkeys were laden with packs, the miners couldn’t ride, they had to walk alongside. Legend has it the burro racing tradition started when two miners found gold in the same location and raced each other to the nearest town to stake their claims.
Today there are five burro races every summer in Colorado, including three “Triple Crown” events: the 29-mile race in Fairplay, a 22-mile run in Leadville and a 12-miler in Buena Vista, which take place on three consecutive weekends in late July and August. The other races are earlier in the summer in Georgetown and Idaho Springs.
Donkeys are laden with 33-pound packs of traditional mining gear, including a pick, gold pan and shovel. Runners lead their donkeys, or run behind them, and can even carry their donkeys across streams or other obstacles, but the donkeys may not at any point carry the runners.
I’ve long fantasized about getting into donkey backpacking, Everett Ruess-style. Stumbling onto the World Championship Burro-Race definitely inspired me to think more about someday traveling with a donkey by my side. Donkeys are amazing creatures: smart, sensitive, brimming with personality. Plus they’re strong and hardy as hell: after trotting more than 29-mountain miles at elevation, none of the donkeys was even winded at the finish line and few had broken a sweat. Sounds like a great travel partner to me!
For more info on burro racing, check out the Western Pack-Burro Association website. A schedule of this summer’s races can be found here.
My blood pressure went up when I started reading, but, thank goodness, the burro event did not involve burro roping (which constitutes cruelty, abuse). This kind of burro racing? Yes, *that* I would enjoy witnessing. 🙂 And I think that you, with your instinct+heart for animals and nature, would probably travel stupendously with a burro…
P.S. Belated congrats on your new companion (is it Rover & Rattler now, or will the LR be earning its own “warrior name”?) – it suits you so very well! Very cool. Safe and fun travels always!
Thank you! For now, it’s the Rover, but I’m sure it will earn a more unique moniker at some point! I’ll be sure to let you all know when it does!
Since I love to follow every link you offer in your posts, look to where I’ve meandered, enjoying this post again!
Re. hiking with a pack burro: Perhaps it would interest you to check out seasidedonkey.co.uk – woman+donkey walking the perimeter of Wales. They are still en route; usually there’s a new blog post once a week. (I don’t think you’d have similar problems with the burro as she did in the beginning, though, as you are a natural at understanding and speaking Animalese.)
Oh wow, I love this! Thanks for posting the link. I’ve subscribed to her blog and I’ll be living my donkey travel dreams through her, for now. Cheers, M
And I look forward to living my donkey travel dreams through *you*, one of these days!!
One of the things I most appreciate about your life style is that every day when you get up, you have the possibility of some new and interesting experience.
Here in Appalachia, a lot of people own donkeys that came from somewhere out west. There is a program to save wild burros and horses by moving them to farms and ranches. I don’t think anyone uses the donkeys for anything, but it’s nice to see them grazing in the meadows and pastures.
Thanks, Harry. My policy is to say yes to all opportunities and it always serves me well.
Awesome! I missed the one in Bishop, CA by 2 weeks! Looks fun and funny 🙂
Hi Anna, I know you will love this story too of the Colorado donkey races. The Wenks had three donkeys–one was named Elf and I’ve forgotten the other names now–and Burt used to always say of his donkeys, “They’re good people.” Like that National Geographic documentary we watched of unusual animal friendships, one of the Wenks’ donkeys was very close to one of their rabbits and they would sit side by side everyday.
Where are you now? Of course I wish you were here. I made a wonderful beef-bone soup with baby lima beans, garlic, onion and fresh basil and rosemary. The bones had a good bit of meat on them too. Pretty awesome.
much love to you and Elijah. mom
Blessings on your day.
My brother and I have stayed in Fairplay many times. It’s a great base for hiking and mountain-climbing, not as busy as Breckinridge or Buena Vista. We did Democrat and Cameron but baled on Lincoln because the wind was blowing so hard. Mt Silverheels is also in that area. Not a 14ter but close, with a great view and lots of ptarmigan.
Yeah the ridge over to Lincoln is super narrow and exposed. Not somewhere you’d want to be if it’s blowing! Excellent judgement, Dave. I’ll have to check out Fairplay sometime when it’s not hosting Burro Days. Seems like a nice quiet mountain town!
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